Curly Hair and Layers: Two Rules

Curly hair carries a unique structural requirement. When incorporating layers, the objective is to remove excess weight without compromising the coil pattern or encouraging uneven expansion.

Most mistakes occur when the hair is treated as a uniform surface rather than a collection of individual spirals. By following two specific parameters, you maintain the integrity of your texture.

1. Evaluate density before sectioning. Before altering any length, observe how your curls sit when fully dry. Do not manipulate the hair while wet, as water weight misrepresents the natural bounce. Identify the thickest areas near the nape, as this is where internal weight removal is most effective.
2. Observe the perimeter. Avoid cutting the perimeter too short. If the outer layers are shorter than the length of your longest coil, the hair will lose its natural downward gravity and create a spherical, frizzy shape. Maintain length at the bottom to anchor the curl.
3. Execute vertical point-cutting. When creating internal layers, use the tips of your shears to cut vertically into the ends of the curls. Horizontal cuts create blunt lines that trap volume and cause triangular silhouettes. Vertical movement allows individual curls to nest within each other.
4. Distribute moisture evenly. After shaping, apply a leave-in conditioner to re-establish the bond between layered ends. Ensure the product covers the mid-lengths where the new layers transition. This encourages the freshly cut ends to align with the rest of the pattern.

Blunt horizontal cuts are the primary architect of the dreaded triangular curl shape.