Modern Shag vs. 70s Shag: An Evolution

The shag haircut functions as a masterclass in internal layering, utilizing varied lengths to build volume where it is needed and remove weight where it is not. While the 1970s iteration relied on aggressive razor-cutting and heavy perming to achieve a specific, rounder profile, the modern interpretation favors softer lines and air-dried utility.

Understanding the distinction between these two approaches determines how you style the hair daily. You are moving from a structural dependence on heat styling to a shape that works in tandem with natural hair texture.

  1. Preparation on damp hair. Begin with freshly washed, towel-dried hair. Avoid aggressive rubbing with a terry cloth towel, as this creates unwanted frizz in the mid-lengths. Apply a light sea salt spray or a styling mousse to provide a base for the layers to hold their shape during the drying process.
  2. Strategic air-drying. Allow the hair to air dry until it is approximately eighty percent dry. Avoid manipulating the hair with a brush during this stage. The weight of the water helps the layers settle into their intended pattern rather than puffing out at the roots.
  3. Root-lifting manipulation. Once the hair is mostly dry, use your fingers to gently lift the hair at the crown. This is the primary difference between the 70s style, which utilized constant volume, and the modern style, which focuses on directional lift. Gently rake your fingers through the top layers to encourage the movement built into the haircut.
  4. Texturizing the ends. Apply a small amount of matte pomade to the tips of your fingers. Focusing only on the bottom two inches of the hair, pinch and twist small sections to emphasize the choppy nature of the cut. This mirrors the defined, razored look of the 70s without requiring extreme chemical styling.
  5. Final placement. Flip your head forward once and back to allow the layers to fall into their natural position. If any sections appear flat, lift them at the root and apply a light texture powder. The result should be a shape that frames the face with movement rather than rigid stiffness.
The modern shag is defined not by how much volume it holds, but by how it moves.