Mapping Highlighter Geography

Highlighter is a tool for directing light. When applied correctly, it mimics the way natural light hits the high planes of the face, resulting in a healthy, luminous finish. When applied without logic, it disrupts the skin texture and draws focus to areas that require shadow rather than illumination.

The goal is to maintain a soft-glow appearance by selecting only the surfaces that physically protrude from the bone structure. By limiting product to the following six zones, you create dimension without resorting to heavy sparkle.

1. The upper cheekbone. Locate the highest point of your cheekbone, just below the eye socket. Use a small fan or setting brush to apply a light sweep of product. Ensure you stop before reaching the orbital rim of the eye to keep the glow contained.
2. The bridge of the nose. Apply a vertical line down the center of the nose bridge, stopping at the tip. Keep the line narrow; if it widens, you will add bulk to the nose rather than height. Blend the edges into the skin until the product is indistinguishable.
3. The cupid’s bow. Deposit a tiny amount of product on the center of the upper lip line. This serves to catch light and define the natural peak of the lip. Avoid dragging the highlighter into the corners of the mouth.
4. The brow bone. Sweep a small amount of product directly under the tail of the eyebrow. This clarifies the arc of the brow and opens the eye area. Use a matte or satin finish to avoid drawing attention to fine hairs.
5. The inner corner. Place a dot of highlighter at the inner tear duct of each eye. This brings light to a naturally shadowed area, creating a rested effect. Blend outward slightly to avoid a concentrated cluster of product.
6. The center of the chin. Apply a final, light touch to the center of the chin. This creates balance by mirroring the light reflected on the upper half of the face. Keep the radius small.

Highlighter is a tool for directing light, not for changing your face shape.