Defining the Cut Crease for Deep-Set Eyes

Deep-set eyes are defined by an orbital bone that protrudes slightly over the lid, creating a natural shadow in the crease. Attempting a standard cut crease often results in the line disappearing when the eye is fully open. To combat this, the technique must be adjusted to sit slightly above the actual anatomical fold.

This method relies on maintaining visual continuity regardless of the eye's movement. By mapping the lid while the eye is open, you ensure the graphic line remains visible and sharp.

1. Map the anchor point. Look straight into a mirror with a neutral expression. Use a fine-tip brush to lightly mark the highest point of your orbital bone. This dot represents the upper boundary of your new crease line.
2. Define the perimeter. Connect the inner corner of the eye to the outer corner by drawing a faint line through your anchor point. Keep the line consistent in thickness as it follows the curve of the eye socket. Ensure the transition is smooth without jagged edges.
3. Apply base pigment. Use a flat, firm brush to apply a concealer or eyeshadow primer to the lid area below the drawn line. Press the product directly into the skin to prevent smearing. Ensure the edges meet the drawn line exactly for a clean separation.
4. Set the cut. Apply a powder or pigment over the concealer to lock the shape in place. Use a pressing motion rather than sweeping. This prevents the concealer from migrating into the natural fold of the eyelid.
5. Deepen the edge. Reapply a thin, dark shadow along the top edge of the cut crease to add dimension. This creates a high-contrast shadow that makes the lid look more prominent. Blend the outer edge upward slightly to fade into the surrounding skin.

For deep-set eyes, the cut crease must exist where you want it to be seen, not where it folds.