Defining the Monolid Eye with a Cut Crease

A cut crease is a technique designed to create an artificial shadow, providing an illusion of depth on an eyelid that lacks a natural fold. When working with a monolid, the primary goal is to map the shadow above the natural lash line so it remains visible when the eye is open. This requires working with the eye open to ensure the placement is consistent with your unique bone structure.

The process relies on precision rather than blending. Focus on maintaining sharp edges and clean transitions, as blurred lines will collapse the structural effect you are aiming to create.

  1. Apply a base. Use a matte concealer or eye primer with a high pigment load. This ensures the eyelid surface is uniform and tacky enough for the shadows to adhere properly. Tap the product in with a small flat brush to avoid excessive buildup.
  2. Map the shadow. With your eyes open and looking straight into a mirror, draw a light line above your natural lash line where you want the new crease to sit. This usually falls just below the brow bone. Use a cool-toned brown eyeshadow on a pointed pencil brush to establish the shape.
  3. Define the crease. Go over your initial map with a deeper shade to build intensity. Once the depth is established, use a small, dense synthetic brush dipped in concealer to carve out the space beneath your new crease line. Sweep the concealer toward the lash line to clean up any fallout.
  4. Set the lid. Apply a lighter shadow or powder to the clean area beneath the crease. This contrast is what makes the cut crease appear deep. Press the product in rather than sweeping it to ensure the line stays sharp against the darker shadow above.
  5. Reinforce the edges. Return to the crease line with the original deep shadow. You want to sharpen the edge where the light lid meets the dark crease. Re-apply sparingly to fix any areas where the concealer might have blended into the shadow.
  6. Finish with liner. Add a thin line of gel eyeliner along the base of your lashes. This anchors the look and makes the eye appear larger. Finish by applying mascara to the top lashes only, keeping it light to maintain the clarity of the crease.
A cut crease is less about blending and entirely about the geometry of placement.