A Guide to the Cut Crease

The cut crease is a makeup technique that emphasizes the orbital bone by creating a sharp contrast between the lid space and the crease. Unlike blended shadows that prioritize a seamless transition, this method relies on clean edges and deliberate negative space. It requires steady application and a small brush to delineate the boundary of the lid.

Begin with clean, primed eyelids to ensure the color remains fixed. This method is best executed with two contrasting textures: a matte for the crease and a lighter shade for the lid.

1. Apply base color. Use a neutral matte shadow as your transition shade. Buff this into the crease using a soft, rounded brush. The goal is to establish the shape of the crease before introducing the cut.
2. Carve the lid. Take a small, flat-head concealer brush coated with a full-coverage cream concealer. Look straight into a mirror and trace a line following your natural eye fold. Do not close your eye while tracing to ensure the line stays visible.
3. Define the boundary. Once the concealer is placed, tap it gently to even out the surface. Ensure the edge near the crease is crisp. If the line is uneven, use a clean brush to gently sharpen the edge.
4. Set the lid. Pat a light-toned powder or a light shimmer shadow directly over the concealer. Apply this using a dense packing brush. Avoid sweeping motions, as this may shift the concealer beneath.
5. Final integration. Reapply your initial transition color at the outer edge of the cut crease to blend the junction. This ensures the transition from the lid to the crease is purposeful rather than abrupt.

A sharp crease is a matter of geometry, not heavy blending.