By hair type · Sub-chapter 04
Shrinkage, moisture retention, definition, length retention — the full library for coily hair that thrives.
244 how-to's · Updated 27 April 2026 · Avg. 5 min per piece · Edited by Nelly · Beauty & Style Director
Editor's note
Coily hair is the most moisture-thirsty hair type we cover, and the most misrepresented. The shift — toward techniques and ingredients that work with the coil, not against it — has been the most significant development in hair care in a generation. Everything below is evidence of that shift.
Other hair types
What 'coily hair' actually means
Coily hair (Type 4) grows from a highly curved follicle and forms tight zigzag or spiral patterns. The coil structure makes it the most fragile of all hair types. Sebum cannot travel down the coil, which is why coily hair is almost always dry from mid-length to end.
Myth, meet fact
- Myth: Coily hair doesn't grow. Fact: Coily hair grows at the same average rate as any type. What limits length is breakage and moisture loss.
- Myth: Coily hair needs less frequent washing. Fact: It needs less frequent shampoo — but consistent moisturising.
- Myth: Grease and heavy oils are the answer. Fact: Water-based products first, then oil to seal.
Everything we've published on coily hair
- The LOC method for coily hair — step by step
- Why 4C hair keeps breaking at the same length
- Protective styling for length retention
- The twist-out — the complete method
- Moisturising 4B and 4C hair on non-wash days
- Understanding shrinkage